Geneva 2018: The Year's Fine Timepieces From Top Watchmakers

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The week of the Geneva 2018 show presents the first of the year’s major revelations of fine timepieces from top watchmakers. Before the 2017 shows, we took a look at some outstanding men’s watches, offering a fascinating look at the latest in top timepiece design —and a hint at what was to come.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Taking a distinctly sleeker approach to the SIHH show’s perpetual calendar trend, Swiss maker Audemars Piguet launched this all-black ceramic (including the bracelet) 41 mm version of its iconic Gérald Genta-designed Royal Oak timepiece. The gleaming, hand-finished (in a process that takes 30 hours of work to finish only the bracelet), ceramic presentation adds a decidedly sporty touch to the classic complication and delivers significant benefits of durability and lighter weight. $93,000, audemarspiguet.com

Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon

Playing off Cartier’s illustrious heritage of “mystery clocks,” this latest fine timepiece from Head of Movement Creation Carole Forestier-Kasapi applies the mystery movement to an exquisite double flying tourbillon function that appears to float in space at 10 o’clock. It also throws in a minute repeater function, all visible in a compact, easy-to-wear titanium 45 mm open-work approach with only an 11.15 mm thickness. Part of the brand’s Rotonde de Cartier collection, this exquisite watch is a limited edition of 50 pieces. Price upon request, cartier.com

Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex 25th Anniversary Edition

Innovative Geneva watchmaker Franck Muller celebrates its 25th anniversary with this handsome special-edition version of its classic Cintrée Curvex timepiece, intricately decorated with its signature deco numeral dial font brought off the face and onto the case itself in a gold-engraved, ceramic-coated execution. A special anniversary logo above 6 o’clock makes this large tonneau watch even more recognizable from across the room. From $25,176, franckmuller.com

House of BOVET 1822 Virtuoso VIII

Celebrating its 195th anniversary in 2017, the Swiss watchmaking House of BOVET 1822 and its artisans in Fleurier, Switzerland, introduced the eighth version of its classic Virtuoso timepiece collection in 44 mm, now with a 10-day flying tourbillon and big date indicator. Utilizing the brand’s signature Amadeo case with its crown at 12 o’clock, it is easily convertible from wristwatch to pocket watch to desk clock. The timepiece stands as a superb example of traditional engraving and technical arts with enough modern twists to balance its vintage appeal. Red gold (pictured) $199,800, white gold $209,800, platinum $267,800, bovet.com