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January 15 marks the start of the international watch show in Geneva, which starts the year off with a bang by introducing the latest, most advanced models from dozens of the watch world’s most serious brands. With just a few clues about what is to come—and about which, naturally, we are sworn to secrecy—we wanted to check in with recent models from some of the brands that will be exhibiting in Geneva later this month.

As in any centuries-old art, tradition brings a huge weight to haute horology, and while some watchmakers delight in casting it aside (telling time with tubes filled with neon fluid instead of baton-shaped hands? why not?), others drill down, distilling the essence of horology into impeccably precise, finely finished timepieces that might delight any time-traveling visitor from the nineteenth century who could get over our bizarre habit of strapping watches to our wrist.

Baume & Mercier, My Classima
Baume & Mercier, My Classima Modern Luxury

Baume & Mercier

Baume & Mercier remains true to the brand’s original founders’ motto, from 1830: “Accept only perfection, only manufacture watches of the highest quality.” Positioned at a price point much more accessible to more watch lovers than many other high-end brands, Baume & Mercier continues to create modern collections with a timeless look. Introduced at SIHH 2017, My Classima draws inspiration from a 1940s model of the brand, pairing a precise quartz movement with a refined dial, Roman numeral hour markers, and three case sizes (31mm, 36.5mm and 40mm) that fit the wrists of both men and women.

IWC Da Vinci
IWC Da Vinci Modern Luxury

IWC

Returning to its iconic Da Vinci Collection for SIHH 2017, IWC brought back the round case that had served the line so well at its inception. The Da Vinci automatic 36 boasts a classic three-hand design with a discreet date at 6 o’clock.

IWC DaVinci -- caseback
IWC DaVinci -- caseback Modern Luxury

The handsomely engraved caseback depicts the perfectly overlapping circles of the Flower of Life, a meaningful design that fascinated the original Renaissance Man, Leonardo da Vinci.

H.Moser&Cie Venturer Small Seconds Purity
H.Moser&Cie Venturer Small Seconds Purity Modern Luxury

H. Moser & Cie

Taking a strong stand for simplicity and quality over branding gimmicks, H. Moser invests in its trademark “fumé” dials, which create a subtly shaded effect from center to circumference, eschewing hour markers and even the brand’s logo, allowing the simple beauty of the product to stand on its own. A transparent caseback on the Venturer Small Seconds Purity model reveals the HMC 327 manually-wound movement within. Although H. Moser’s watches are over 95 percent Swiss, the watchmaker also forgoes the “Swiss Made” label, deeming it insufficiently rigorous.

Parmigiani Toric Chronometre in white and black
Parmigiani Toric Chronometre in white and black Modern Luxury

Parmigiani

Housed in a beautifully fluted case, the Toric Chronomètre goes way back, drawing inspiration from the very first watch designed by Michel Parmigiani, which in turn was influenced by the strong, timeless structure of architectural Doric columns. The simplicity of the dial complements the detailing of the bezel, with a black opaline or white grained finish punctuated by Arabic numerals, and a generous date aperture at 6 o’clock. The Calibre PF331 beating within has been certified as a chronometer by the COSC.

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